West Africa is huge, but most first-time visitors start on the Atlantic coast of Senegal or Ghana. Both offer music, markets, beaches and heavy historical sites without needing a multi-country expedition. Pick one country for a week; stretch to ten days if you want a second base outside the capital.
Senegal: Dakar and Gorée
Dakar is the cultural hub. Use it for music (mbalax clubs and live venues), craft and fish markets, museums, and Atlantic views from the Corniche. Plan two or three nights so you are not rushing evenings—shows often start late.
Gorée Island is a short ferry from the city: car-free lanes, colonial houses, and the House of Slaves memorial. Treat it as a half-day or full day with an official guide. Historians debate how central Gorée was to the slave trade compared with other ports; the visit still matters as a place of remembrance.
If you have spare days, add Saint-Louis (UNESCO island town to the north) or the Saloum Delta for boats and mangroves—not both on a short trip, because road times add up.
Ghana: Accra and the Cape Coast
Accra is sprawling and energetic. Focus on Jamestown, markets, memorials, and nightlife rather than trying to “see everything.” Ride-hailing helps; traffic is real.
Cape Coast and Elmina are the heritage anchors: UNESCO castles tied to the Atlantic slave trade, plus Elmina’s fishing harbour. Kakum National Park’s canopy walkway pairs well as a morning add-on. Base yourself in Cape Coast/Elmina for two nights so castle days are not a rushed day trip from Accra.
English is widely used in Ghana, which lowers friction for many travellers. Yellow fever vaccination proof and malaria precautions are standard planning items—check current entry rules before you book.
Two realistic loops
Senegal coast (7–10 days). Dakar 3 nights (including Gorée) → Saly/Saloum or Saint-Louis 2–3 nights → return via Dakar. Keep long transfers in daylight.
Ghana coast (7–10 days). Accra 2 nights → Cape Coast/Elmina 2–3 nights (castles + Kakum) → optional Volta Region day, then fly out of Accra. Skip trying to bolt on northern safari parks unless you have a second week.
Flying Senegal–Ghana for a “both countries” week usually wastes time. Choose one, go deeper.
Planning tips
- Book airports transfers and castle guides in advance when you can.
- Carry cash for markets and small taxis; cards work in larger hotels.
- Dress modestly at memorials and in rural areas; ask before photographing people.
- Dry season (roughly November–April) is the most comfortable window for these coastal routes.
The short version
For music and French-speaking West Africa, start with Dakar and Gorée. For castles, beaches and English-speaking ease, start with Accra and Cape Coast/Elmina. Either loop works in about a week if you stop trying to cover the whole region.
More detail: must-see sights, best time to visit, and the wider Africa travel guide.