Argentina and Chile offer some of the best hiking in the world, two excellent capitals and a wine region at the foot of the Andes. This guide lists the sights that most visitors would regret missing and the practical details that make them work.
Patagonia
Torres del Paine, Chile. The park’s three granite towers are the symbol of Patagonia. The W Trek, which takes four to five days, links the Grey Glacier, the French Valley and the base of the towers. The longer O Circuit adds the remote back side of the park and takes seven to ten days. Refugios and campsites inside the park must be booked well in advance for the main season, so reserve them as soon as you know your dates. If you only have a day or two, a day hike to the Base Torres viewpoint (about 8 to 9 hours round trip) is the classic option.
Fitz Roy and El Chaltén, Argentina. El Chaltén is known as Argentina’s trekking capital, and its trails start right in the village. The hike to Laguna de los Tres, which gives the best view of Fitz Roy, takes a full day and is about 20 km round trip. Laguna Torre and Cerro Torre are easier. There are no permit requirements for most day hikes, which makes it good for flexible plans. Fitz Roy is often hidden in cloud, so give yourself two or three days to catch a clear view.
Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina. About 80 km from El Calafate, this glacier advances so that you can watch huge pieces of ice calve into the lake from boardwalks. Boat trips and guided ice treks are available. It is an easy trip even without hiking experience.
Buenos Aires
The city rewards unhurried exploration. Highlights include:
- Recoleta Cemetery and the neighborhood’s museums, including the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which has free entry.
- San Telmo and La Boca. San Telmo has cobblestone streets and a Sunday antiques fair. La Boca’s colorful houses on El Caminito are touristy but photogenic, and the area is best visited by day and with care.
- Palermo. The parks, cafes, bookshops and restaurants make this a good area to stay, and a pleasant place to spend an afternoon.
- A parrilla meal and a tango show. Book a dinner table in advance for a popular grill, and choose a tango venue with positive recent reviews. Some cheaper shows are mostly tourist traps.
Santiago
Santiago is often treated as a gateway, but it deserves at least two days. Walk through the Plaza de Armas and the historic center, ride the funicular up Cerro San Cristóbal for views of the city and the Andes, and visit the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, which has an excellent collection of pre-Columbian art. Poet Pablo Neruda’s house, La Chascona, in the Bellavista district, is also worth a visit; book tickets ahead. For food, visit the Mercado Central and the neighborhoods of Lastarria and Barrio Italia. Chilean wines such as Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon come from valleys close to the city, including Maipo.
Mendoza
Mendoza is Argentina’s Malbec capital, with vineyards set against the Andes. Highlights include tasting at wineries in Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, a long lunch with wine pairings, and cycling between estates in Maipú. For something outdoors, go rafting on the Mendoza River or take the high-mountain road toward Aconcagua Provincial Park to see views of the highest peak in the Americas. Wineries often require reservations, and tastings are best arranged one or two days ahead.
Two efficient routes
Patagonia trek (8–10 days). Fly into El Calafate, visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, then take a bus to El Chaltén for 3 days of hiking. Return to El Calafate and cross to Puerto Natales, and finish in Torres del Paine. Add a night in Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales before your flight home.
City and wine (7–10 days). Spend 3 or 4 nights in Buenos Aires, fly to Mendoza for 3 nights, and end in Santiago for 2 or 3 nights. You can fly from Mendoza to Santiago, or take the Andes bus, which takes about 7–8 hours and has some of the best views in the region.
Practical tips
- Book first. Torres del Paine accommodation, Perito Moreno tours and winery lunches are the items most likely to sell out.
- Patagonia weather. Winds are strong and rain can arrive in minutes. Pack waterproof and windproof layers, even in summer, and have a plan B for trail days.
- Season. Patagonian trekking runs from November to March. Cities and wine regions are best from March to May and from September to November.
- Cash and cards. Chile is largely card-friendly. In Argentina, bring some cash and check the latest advice on exchange options.
The short version
For a first visit, choose either the Patagonia trek or the cities-and-wine route, not both, unless you have at least two weeks. Book Patagonian accommodation and tours first, and allow a spare day for wind.
For timing and further reading, see the best time to visit the Southern Cone, the top destinations guide and the South America travel guide.